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Friday, August 1, 2008

Alta to Gryllfjord 1 August


The ride was as different from last nights trip across the desolation as could be. Steep sided fjords huge rock mountains, with snow pockets, waterfalls, villages along the waterds edge, with towering forboding cliffs that appear as if they call fall on top any time. Reassuringly they seem not to. The blue ranges of mountains with the green sea in front, with sometimes glimpses of blue through the clouds and mist. Very nordic. I am told that the Vikings came from all 3 countries, the Swedes did little, the Danes sent out war parties, and the Norges actually invaded and occupied Britain, particularly York, so my friend Rolf at the Tourist information office informed me. A very helpful chap that found me a place to stay then took me drinking in some fine company. The light at 3 am I can now report was not sunlit but was bright enough to read by.
This little fishing village of Gryllfjord is at the end of the line. Only the ferry goes beyond here.
It is a short fjord by my experience and gets the wind from every quarter. plus clouds, fog rain you name it..and it is cold. Population about 100, and all involved in fishing or the ferry, ie accommodation.
The last NZ'er here for any time was a bit of a legend as a sheep shearer. The austere nature of this part of Norway makes it a place for the very robust. They love fishing and beer. I met the headmaster and the Mayor both in the pub about 2.30 am. Its rather a community. The "pub" is above the cafe which does a pretty good fish soup.
nzl04