27 Feb Kluang Jahor State Malaysia

I have been sitting in Melaka trying to organise a trip to the jungle on the worst internet connection I have had to tolerate for a while. The Holiday Inn has not got its act together at all.
So I tried Indonesia, Serawak, Bornoe, the Malay Highlands this time by rain and could not get the timing right or the information I needed to actually endertake the trip.
So finally I spotted a gap in the clouds and was off. It has rained every day. I didn't get far. just down the coast and then inland to Kluang.
The coastal strip in Malaysia is very fertile, and would appear to grow just about anything. Sime Darby however have a considerable number of Palm oil plantations. There are crops of dragon fruit which I can assure you are the fastest and most effective laxative I have ever experienced. The food in general is a disappointing mix of Malay, Indian, Chinese, and about everything else as well. Never mind it is tasty.
I hope I can find some shots of Melaka which is also a confusion of flavours Dutch Portugese British Asian and lots more as well I think. Melaka has a reputation as a good tourist location, perhaps earned in desparation as there is not much going on for the visitor in Malaysia it appears. Like about every city I have ever been to it has a "new mall" full of "international" tenants, from McDonalds to Hush Puppies, and the inevitable food halls, and shops full of what I call junk, but noticably empty of patrons. The shops are empty of people eveywhere. The Hotels are empty.
Its an odd feeling.
nzl04

Holiday Inn Melaka Malaysia

I have observed I believe that I considered there was now an undercurrent in most of the recent countries I have visited, that feels like "go home white man".
It started in the south of Iran. The north was good and the welcome was genuine I felt. In the south the welcome smile lasted a split second.
Then in Pakistan the welcome was there but no warmth.
However India was worse. There was no welcome, just an enquiry, where are you coming from ? Or whats your name. A response to either question did not elicit much more communication.
Thailand as I have mentioned is no longer the warm welcoming country it was however Cambodia felt more like Thailand used to.
Malaysia, the welcome is indifferent. Motorists/bikers give me the "where you coming from" but the people in the street in the hotels and the shops, plain indifference bordering on something less than a welcome I felt. I am an oddity because of the bike however.
So today when I was loading the bike which had been parked at the front door of the Holiday Inn with 24 hour security, and near the Bently owned by the "Boss" I was not expecting any suprises. I left the cloth that I had washed the bike with to dry on the pannier, and it was there that I found someone had taken a crap in it and left it there.
I don't know what thet says about the Malay culture, the Malaka society, or the Holiday Inn security but it does make me feel that my intuitive feeling that colonists have left behind some bad feeling is correct.
As this USA sponsored financial decline worsens, I feel that the white man welcome in some of these badly affected countries will get less pleasant. There is no hiding the fact that you are not a local. Unrest is on the increase already in most of the places I have visited.
Just my opinion.
nzl04

Malaysian images

Some pics.

Penang to the Malay Hills and Malacca

I got away from Georgetown and headed for the Cameron Highlands. Just a really good ride through the flat land of the Malaysian coastal strip then climbing into the hills.

Not a long ride but a good one.

The Cameron Highlands is a popular place for Malaysians. It is pretty, it is cool ( but high humidity )and has a holiday atmosphere. Met a biker from Singapore, he and his 5 mates had ridden there for the night.

It is full of rather tatty high rise Hotels and some "old style Tudor" hotels from Colonial times. A pleasant place but what a relief to be riding in the trees on good roads.

The Cameron Highlands is the tea growing area.

Next day I headed down to the plains again and the rains. I got wet ! Firsy time I have had rain since Albania. As usual I watched the sky, and shot into a service station to shelter. It cleared and I was away through the trees again and suddenly it fell down. I got drenched. So I headed back into the hills this time to Frasers Hill. Other than the rain it was another great ride. Up to about 1000metres and again an old resort area. Poor and expensive Hotels. In fact the place I stayed in could be styled an old dump. Never mind the fan ran all night and the riding suit got dry.

Next day down the mountain on more magnificent riding thropugh coconut plantations rubber plantations, and all sorts of trees and bamboo.

Sadly also more rain showers, so I got to spend some time in bus shelters.

Riding Malaysia is pretty good. And the roadside food stalls are pretty good. Spicy food, cheap, tasty and with tea.

So in the afternoon I did manage to find the waterfront at Malacca and an expensive Hotel.

And that is where I am as the rain showers continue. I will make a run to Singapore when it clears.

Malaysia is a place that seems to have as many Chinese and Indians as Malays. I am unsure that the relocation of other races is a good idea. I am yet to be convinced that moving large numbers of Asians and Indians to New Zealand is of any benefit in the long term. It sure does make NZ like every other country in the world and I ask myself why a European Tourist or an American if they can afford to travel any longer, would want to come to NZ to eat Indian and Chinese food.....stay in foreign owned and staffed Hotels, and end up like I am in Malaysia thinking .......where are the Malays ?

The world is becoming a multi cultural motorway with a McDonalds at each end in a Shopping Plaza the same as the last one ( they are all the same) and Shell stations every 50 k along the way. The same roads the same plants and lanscaping the same advertising the same lighting the same signs, the same same same......

If New Zealand has any future it is in tourism, we have little else, and that means creating a Kiwi feel ........is it already too late ?

What I have seen and NZ needs to make the investment, and that is roads are not upgraded they are retained and new motorways built near the old roads so the locals still have a road and those that want a motorway also have one. It transforms the countryside.

It also makes cycling and walking possible. If NZ has a future that is where it is, eco or green tourism ( bad names but individual travel on foot or cycles) ....or is it too late.

nzl04

20 February in Penang

The ride from Thailand to Malaysia was simple. The border crossing was to say the least casual. I did track down someone that finally stamped an exit entry in my passport and Malaysia was similar. Did get a stamp but no one looked at the bike or the documents, so hope I can get out when the time comes.

And the time is taking longer as I can not find a ferry to take me and the bike to Indonesia. There must be one. Failing that its a boat ride direct from Singapore to Darwin. That would mean missing Indonesia, Bali and Dili and that would be a pity, so lets see what happens.

Malaysia is hot and busy. The motorways are toll free for bikes. Fortunately as I had no local money. Thought I was pretty snaert until it came to the bridge to Penang. Toll 1.40 Ringit, so after 10 minutes of smiling and shrugging they finally accepted 20 Baht and let me cross.

Penang has very much the "colonial" feel, similar to Brisbane. Its a pleasant place but very warm. The "location" or where am I on the blog actually does show my position on Google Earth, and if you zoom in far enough yesterdays Spot send was by the pool I was very pleased to be in !

So its more searching for ferries and then perhaps I may get to the Highlands. The Hill Country Estates, where the "Brits" escaped the heat apparently and grew Tea.

Sounds interesting.

nzl04

Thailand 18 Feb

Well my visit to Thailand is almost over and I have mixed feelings.
It is not the place it was not so many years ago, an opinion shared by so many of the people I speak to. It is more commercial, less friendly, fewer happy people, in fact it has been a big disappointment. Even the food has lost its fascination, or seems so.
I left Bangkok and rode south to Hua Hin on the inland coast. What a shock. Europeans mainly German, all obese, many couples but also many of the sort I saw at Pattaya a few years ago. Blokes my age with Thai girls under 25. It is very unattractive.
So on I rode down some magnificent roadways. It was a pleasure to ride on such a good surface, polite drivers and they even obeyed the rules of the road, wow ! However it was a flat boring ride. Its about 700k from Bangkok to the port where the ferry leaves for Ko Simui. And that was where I went for a couple of days rest for the leg. Its a lot more of a worry now that its oficially broken.
However a few days on a beach never did anyone any harm. Beer swiming sunburn mossies, the usual complaints.
So today it was a ride south, 300k to what turned out to be a suprising city on the sea, Songkhla. Old and interesting (a bit like me really) plus a Tourist Resort on the seafront with special rates. And I soon found out why having asked about facilities, pool, sauna, gym.......wow I was hooked. But the pool was closed, as was the sauna, and the gym was well........
In the spirit of the last night in Thailand I wanted to leave on a happy note despite no swim no sauna. The dining room had a singer, and I was one of three occupantsin a room that would seat 200. The Thai green curry prawns was great, as the singer burst into the Everly Brothers, now that will date a few of you and yes they were popular back in ..., however his rendition of "Ever Rusting Ruv" was cerainly not true to the original. The intentions were good.
I see on the news that President Obama has mortgaged the future of all of the USA to pay for 5 years of consumption that they couldn't afford then and can't afford to pay for now. It is a staggering turn of events. The US is broke, so they will print some money to pay off a dead horse, which will fuel inflation and that will make it all OK. Can't actually see how myself.
However whats this got to do with Thailand, a lot. Tourism must and will be affected. Who if they got a windfall tax refund would spend it on a holiday overseas ? So many of these "tourist destinations" will be very badly impacted. The unrest that is apparent already ( a Policeman was blown up in his car a few miles down the road from here). It will get worse. Trade will suffer. The world will be a very uneasy place for quite a while I fear. The fallout from this "bankers cock up" will be with us for a lot longer than the politicians expect. For my two bobs worth I would put the Banks into Liquidation. Sue the employees for the Bonus payments that any fool could see were unsustainable and let them feel the pain as well. However in a real world things are different. Just as morality has flown out the window so has accountability.
Pics to follow ( sorry)
nzl04

12 Feb still in Bangkok

There was a time when that would have been a plus, "stuck in Bangkok", but now, I am unsure. The happy Thai people are less happy. The tourist is not greeted warmly, but commercially, and the costs have gone up and the service has gone down. All in all its disappointing and "over-run" with tourists.

I felt Cambodia was where Thailand used to be. Happier people.

So I went to Angkor Wat. The getting there and back was a bit of an ordeal. A backpacker trip in a mini van really. The border crossing just silly. It seems there is a desire to make the crossing unpleasant, why I can not understand, it will not stop people.........but the roads in Cambodia were worse. They are having trouble creating a decent road, however once at Siam Reap (or wherever) where Angkor Wat is, the city is a vast array of some of the biggest Hotels I have seen in a small community, dozens of them. If there is any doubt that this is not the economic engine of Cambodia then forget it. Thousands of people and dozens of Hotels spending US dollars. The Cambodian currency is given as change.

What can one say about Angkor Wat. It has a world wide image. I went there to see if it had a "feel", and to see it. For me Matchupichu had no "feel" either. Great to look and and ponder mans inhumanity to man !

The place is in my perception a number of walled religous buildings. The area is about 1 km square. Inside a "Temple" and really small for external image of the place. There seemed to be little internal space, not the sort of place 500 monks could fit into so it left me with many unanswered questions really. No question the place is dramatic and the structures impressive even amazing, the delicate stone work and the images ....... Built around 1180 I believe, about the time of the crusades so it was an interesting time.

I took some pictures having gone there for sunrise and sunset so I hope I can capture some of the beauty of the place. The soul I am sorry I couldn't find or picture. I guess in short there was no sense that many people were actually here and doing things despite the size and beauty of the construction. I did really enjoy the forest that has taken over however. The trees are magnificent.

Pleased to have gone there however.

nzl04

Bangkok 7 February a bikers bitch.

I have been through the entry debacle.

Pic 1 is the manual handling at Nepal.......slide it and lift it courtesy of about 8 small Nepalese.

Pic 2 is the strip needed to change the water impeller. Take off all protection, pipes, covers, expaust pipe, considering that the water pump/impellor is the single most troblesome item on a Dakar having to spend an hour disassembling the bike to access it makes little sense. I have had water pump issues 4 times so far. 2 mechanical (BMW) failures, two mechanics failure.

I can still not get an answer from Thai Air as to my freight cost. Estimate $350 (US) actual $850 (us). I think I was robbed and I believe the freight forwarder Eagle Eyes has a pretty good business of tricking foreign riders. Come to Nepal for cheap freight to BKK ....yeah !

So then it was my turn at the Bangkok BMW dealer. The biggest dealer said "we might fit you in next week" so I went to the other guys.

Two days..........later I got out but at a fair price I reckon ! The main problem was my water leak. My mechanic ( with no English ) was sure it was the seals on the impeller shaft, and he was right. It seem there was a bad job done in the UK.

Then there was the matter of the tyre and tube I had carried 20,000k, the tyre fitted but the BMW dealer in the UK had supplied the wrong tube ! So the old one went back in.

If this depression puts BMW out of business great !

I have said often enough that the main problems with a BMW is BMW themselves. Incompetent is a word that springs to mind !

I went on theweb to get a GPS map. Garmin have a Thai map, but it is out of date apparantly and still costs $400, but the Southeast Asia Map which I need is only supplied from the US on an SD card. So if you want the map when you are in Asia hard luck. You can have it in the US however !

If there was a thing I really wanted from this depression that the US have put the world in, it would be that companies like Garmin (and Motorrad, BMW bike servicing) go out of business and let someone with a focus on customer service get into the market. They deliver a bad product, out of date before its released and there is no way you can actually talk to these people, or even email them !

BMW have turned their dealerships into "sales centres". You are a customer if you are buying something but if you want service you are a just bloody nuisance. Their bike design is "rubbish" as well. put water into the radiator I have to ;

Take off a luggage box at the rear of the bike

Take off a hatch cover, to release the seat,

Remove the seat,

Take off the indicator light ( at the front) 4 screws,

Undo 3 screws to take off the front left body part,

Then access the radiator cap.

Thats supposed to be good design for a touring bike, not a commuting bike, this is for rough road long distance where you may actually want to check the water. Its a bit like taking your clothes off to blow your nose.

They do not supply sufficient tools to repair a punture (or put water in the radiator). Or a centre stand which made oiling the chain difficult or fixing a puncture absurdly difficult (lie the bike down !). Anyone considering a new 800GS would be well advised to look at the cost of getting on the road before buying one to go touring ! Like, bike protection, racks for panniers, tools, I had to change, handle bars, suspension, fit centre stand, change panniers (plastic to metal) and those metal panniers are just plain dangerous to the legs in a slow/stationary fall. Touratach should acyually be sued for that design. The rubbish required that Touratech supply to make the 650 GS suitable for touring is just silly, including the hand protectors that break if the bike falls over.

Well that must be enough.

Its actually pleasant to be in Bangkok agian. I love the food and the calmness of this place.

nzl04

1 - 4 Feb now in Bangkok

Well I spent a day in the goods store at Kathmandu packing NZL04 into a large tea crate. That was pretty much a shambles but we got it done.
I had the pleasure of a walk through the"old town" where my packing mate advised me "white face in door price double" so any plans I had of assisting the Nepalese economy went west.
So I walked and watched the other white faced "donors" and eventually wandered back to the Hotel. There is little to do or see in Khatmandu ( for me). The mountains are the attraction and I can see why. They are special for sure.
So my last night in this part of the world. After a poor meal last night and a fair fuss, tonight at the insistence of the manager, I had the Nepal special, soup, main, desert, and it was great. even a Carlseberg.
So I made the airpot in time. It was very odd being in a confined space with so many people.
I no longer enjoy the "thrill" of flying.
I was collected at the Airport, for once I had booked ahead.
Being nearby it was easy to return to assemble the bike , which took most of the day. I would like to quickly run through the process as it was a circus.
Go to airport and, eventually, find Thai Cargo. Not many Thai understand "Thai Freight" it seems.
So I was dropped at a cafeteria. There a man wanted to take an order for tea and "talk" to me. Another tout however showed me to the actual Thai Freight office.
There I was told that I needed to go to Customs, next building up stairs.
At next building up stairs I was to go get two copies of "everything"....next building.
I found a lady with a copier in next building and got two copies of everything and returned.
I presented the two copies of everything and was told "we closed for lunch come back 1 hour"
So I went back to "next building where there was a cafeteria that worked on the coupon system.
I inspected the stalls and saw what I fancied, fish rice and greens.
I purchased the coupon and returned.
I ordered and was asked for 1 more coupon......so back I went for another coupon.
I returned received my meal and enjoyed a VERY spicy lunch. then waited.
About 45 minutes later I returned and sat andwaited. Soon I got my papers. And some directions.
First go to Customs and pay bill. That meant first going to "inward goods" showing my documents, receiving a bill and returning to the cashier to pay. Then having paid returning to Inward goods for the documents. So I did.
Then it was up 4 floors to security where I presented my documents and was presented with a bill. Pay at cashier down there, so I did. And I returned and received a pass to allow me into bond.
So I walked to Thai Freights huge shed. We walked down rows of dock gates until at one I spotted my tea chest. I was able to convince them that was mine so some young chap in the office grabbed my papers had them processed and we left, and so did he.
A supervisor wanted to know what I was doing, so I said as directly as I could papers taken, bike here, no tools......so we went for a walk to find the man with the hammer. This was after being assured by the freight forwarder in Kahtmandu there will be people there to help...yeah !!!
So I set to my tea chest, and out she slowly came. I called for help to get the bike on the centre stand as it had no front wheel. That accomplished it was "put her back together".
That took me a while.
Eventually it was done and the bike ran allways a good feeling when it starts.
Then my "man" with my documents came back with a customs man and said we go. No I said I go when I am ready and at that point he advised me that his services were 4000 bt.. The ensuing row had many parties arrive to "mediate".
So it was finally a ride down the goods dock to many shouts of encouragement ( this is the second of these Bond store rideouts) and they really do get quite excited by the bike.
A short ride to customs. Two young girls who had no idea of what a bike was so eventually I got the helper out of the way and we found the information they wanted.
Then it was my turn for a suprise, having insisted on having the Carnet, and copies of the carnet when it came time to process it they said we do not use Carnet.....
Last it was time to "pay" the man that I discovered was not an employee of Thai but a freelance hustler, so I paid 400 bt a whole lot more than I should have.
Customs were fine and I was out the gate. Found some fuel and after one very odd ride and being 100% lost took to the back streets and using the GPS as a guide actually found myself on the other side of the river from the Hotel. There was a footbridge and I was at the Hotel.
Today I rested !
Tomorrow I go in search of the BMW dealer. Typical BMW dealer reaction to a traveller. Come back next week we are very busy.
I have learned one thing about BMW worldwide, after the bike is sold they do not give a damn !
Thankfully however there are exceptions. The guys at Tunbridge Wells tried, failed but tried, but the BMW dealer in Hasselt in Belgium is the BEST BMW dealership in the world and I have seen a few. Head office in Munich is good but wouldn't you know it they do not carry stock. 1 item on display 1 in store and thats it. If you are the second buyer that week hard luck.
But I digress.
I am in Bangkok in the suburbs. Tomorrow its the city.
Soon I must fly south. Time is racing by.
nzl04