Neems to Wales 24 August

My optimism was rewarded as the mist lifted sufficiently for me to see the coast on my way round 'sheeps head" an interestingly named peninsula.
It was a day of getting on and making the ferry to Wales. I got there in plenty of time.
The ride across was uneventful, but I did meet another biker, a young fellow that had ridden Ireland.
We left the ferry together and found that due to the Bank Holiday, a day on which all of England goes somewhere and fill up all the accommodation, so having arrived in the middle of the night I was back to the Shell station this time to pitch a tent on their back padock. Thanks again to a lady in a Shell shop.
nzl04

Ballybunion to Neems 23 August

This was my Ring of Kerry day. First I rode the "smaller ring to the north which we a very good ride. More dramatic coastline and then into Tralee where the Rose of Tralee competition was being held. Some young ladies on their way to the town for the weekend told me about it.
So I stopped in the town to see what was happening and luckily where I parked was a policeman. Very decent looking mature cop I thought so I asked him "whats on". He looked at me very seriously before replying " fuck all". He then consulted a booklet from his inside pocket and said well there is painting in the square and a bouncy castle behind the cathedral.
I decided not to stay for such serious fun.
The "ring" turned out to be rather a disappointment as it was invisible through the fog and rain, so I stopped at Neems hoping that tomorrow would be better.
nzl04

Westport to Ballybunion 22 August

Today was a ramble down the coast of Ireland. Its a pretty country. Lots of narrow roads, little villages, small farms, lots of tractors running down the roads.
Ballybunion, meaning the town of Bunion ( the local family landowner) was also full of holiday makers so I stayed at the B+B and dined at the pub. The next door was where the music was so I went there for a beer. What fun. A piccolo and guitar. The Irish love their pub music with good reason.
The coast of Ireland is rugged and beautiful.
nzl04

Portrush to Westport 21 August

Getting out of Portrush was made more interesting due to a failure of my GPS. So a very friendly chap in Londonderry found the fault and fixed it. So back into the hills of Ireland.
Stumbled across a "real pub". I hope I can find the picture, sadly they didn't serve food as there were some real charachters in there however the next publican made me a sandwich and I enjoyed a guinness and a yarn. He was lamenting the rather serious decline of the economy. He did however direct me to my destination for the night, Westport. Sadly it turned out to be more commercial than I had expected. In fact most of Ireland is aimed at the tourist. However they are a wonderful people with great humour, they play sport and have fun.
nzl04

Scotland to Ireland 20 August

I left Oban in miserable conditions with a heavy rain warning in Glasgow which was on my route south. So I stuck to the main roads. Visibilty is the main problem. The rain gets on the helmet lens, and the cold causes fogging up, so I have to open the lens, the for clears but the rain comes in on my glasses so I have two waterfalls to peer through. Not so much fun !
However I made the ferry and again met some local bikers who had been to the GP in Brno a city I had recently passed through on the ride from China. Onother disappointing city on the Goat riders trip.
So they gave me the heads up on where to go and so I did. Up the coast to the Giants causeway. Legend has it that the giant built it to get between Scotland and Ireland however what it is, is a dramatic site with some very interesting stone formations formed after volcanic eruptions. It is the great attraction of Northern Ireland. Sadly I made it in diminished light but I hope I got a feel of how pretyy the site is. I moved on in the dark to Portrush for a miserable night in a B+B and fish and chips for dinner which were poor as well. Never mind it was a most varied and interesting day.
nzl04

Skye 19 August

Skye is an island attached to Scotland by a bridge. It has the reputation of being the prettiest of the scottish islands. Not unreasonably either but a little diminished in the cloudy conditions.
There is no question it is a bleak place. Sheep line and wander the roads, which while narrow are in good order and serving a suprising number of homes. How these people survive in the winter is interesting but ideal if solitude is enjoyable.
I was obliged to visit the Tasker distillery as this was the only whiskey distillery I did visit in a land where they flourish. In fact some suggest there are about 50 of them.
Another chance meeting with a couple of local bikers on the ferry back to the mainland saw me ride toward Oban and just short of the town found a waterside pub. It was a quaint little spot called the Glue Pot.
nzl04

Crieff to Skye 18 August

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The ride to the top north west of Scotland has been on the list given to me by my friend the pig farmer in Finland so today was the day to do it, and I was not disappointed. The unique nature of the scottish highlands has a beauty of its own. The cliffs are tall and rocky, the sea is clear and bright, the heather is purple and the streams with their red rocks are picture postcard perfect.

So I rode through the glens I guess, with lots of heather and sheep. One way roads, tar sealed but neat little roads weaving through the countryside. It was there I came across this Broch called Dun Dornaigil a shelter for the people from attack in about 200AD ( but not from Romans who didnt come this far north) when there was a land shortage.....hard to believe !

Then the towering cliffs of the North coast.

Down the West coast was amazing as well. I hope I captyred some of its charm and uniqueness.

I ended up after 500km on the Isle of Skye. 500k is a long way to get not very far, the GPS said 50k as the crow fliew but 112k by road. There are lots of Lochs and valleys and little fishing villages. It would be bleak in the winter thats for sure.

nzl04

Crieff Gathering 17 August

Whille at Rannock I learned that the Crieff Highland games were on the following day. That was too much to resist as they had a piping competition for the piebroch ( will check the spelling).

This was a great day out. The first two pipers were ladies from New Zealand, to my great suprise.

The pipe band competition contained a band from Oman (easily detected) and a band from the north of Spain with a rather different set of pipes but very distibctive music.

The Scot watching caught my eye.......and camera.

So after the games which were a delight of activity and sound, pipers everywhere, events in the arena, and band competitions all in the same location, all great entertainment, I was off to the silent north again, through Inverness, and on to the coast with the odd oil drilling platform at the wharf.

My destination was by chance Tain, the Royal Borough of Tain indeed as it seems not all of Scotland was following Bonnie Prince Charles to Cullodden Moore. I visited Cullodden moore. It is reaaly quite astonishing that the battle fields I have seen are all rather small. This one no exception. They could have called out to eachother and I believe they did, so one can only imagine the language they used before rushing at eachother and getting killed. The last picture is the cottage that still stands at Cullodden and was part of the scots battle plan....that failed.

nzl04

Loch Rannock 16 August

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I guess most bagpipe students learn the tune Loch Rannock first, well I did. So the opportunity to visit the Highland gathering at Kinloch Rannock could not be passed up.

Got my pics mixed and have one of Hadrians wall and the Scotland sign...oops
The countryside is great. Purple hills of heather.
The games were pretty low key but fun to be in a scottish while they had fun and games.
nzl04

Norway to Newcastle 14/15 August

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The city of Stavanger is like most other seaside harbour cites, all the same to most people but to boating people fascinating. And this place was. The picture however is a village in Scotland. I liked the contrast between the Pub and the Tower.
The new world order was again evident. Beside the statue of some great leader of Stavanger was a person from a foreign land begging.....
Norway would need to be the richest country on earth with social policies like theirs.
The ferry boat was like most other Danish ferry boats as the Danes seem to do most of the ferrying although this service will soon cease apparently due to the oil prices.
Newcastle was the entry point and I was soon heading north along Hadrians wall. Another fascinating piece of history. If you have not read about Hadrian he is interesting as well.
So I rode on over the Firth of Forth bridge at rush hour on Friday.....they have that sort of silliness even here.
Found a small pub in a small village and dined in the public bar with the locals. They were a good lot with a great deal of "crack" which I learned meant to enjoy the company, have a laugh or similar..
nzl04

Last day Norway 13 August

The ride from Bergen was great but despite the pleasure the pain of the wet and the cold got to me before I reached my destination ( suggested by the Shellshop girl) of Neset, so after 360k I stopped at the Setesdal Hotel right on the shores of a stone walled lake, complete with grass roof. And well pleased I was. Really nice people.
So I set off for the coast as the lakes increased and the valleys widened. This is a great summer camping hiking and fishing spot if Norway has another one.
My destination Kristiansand was visited, and I carried on. Found a very attractive seaside town and asked the Shell lady where I was. "Here vid me" was her reply. Good humour for this self proclaimed shy people. However she did put me on to Route "44" and it was as she promised beautiful.
This was great riding. Stone walled fjords, harbours nestled in rocky shores as the North sea raged outside.
This is a special land, thats for sure. The rocky mountainsides gave way to rolling pasture with cows and onions, (why onions I wonder ?) the only crop grown.
The destination was Stavanger. A cobble stoned city where I would embark for Birmingham tomorrow.
nzl04

Bergen, south. 12 August

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TJ left for Iceland so I headed south for some new riding and on my way to my assignation with the ferry to the UK.

The area round Bergen is a mass of fjords. Beautiful riding even in poor weather which has been an everyday factor. Dont think, just put on the wet weather gear.

However it brings the hills alive with waterfalls. They cascade off the cliffs in every direction. It is a splendid place to ride.

It is interesting that the Norwegians when asked happily tell you their worst problem is the cost of living. "It is so expensive". Thats for them, they earn income but for a tourist it is very very expensive.

The good side is that there is unlikely to be a better place to ride for pure scenic beauty.

So I rode East then south again fjords, the inevitable ferry across the fjord and then the climb out over the top at 1400m above sea level. Cold and wet, but unforgettable.

The valleys widen as the south coast nears but these wonderfull grey rock walls and waterfalls are everywhere.

I will see if I can get some pictures that reflect todays ride, a ferry, a split waterfall by the road, (yes thats water not snow) and a village with a huge backdrop.

nzl04

Kalvik to Bergen 11 August

After breakfast and a "show" ride up the street by a local Dakar rider ( he has finished better than 10th six times so must be pretty good) it was back on the road. This time the long way round instead of the ferry.
The usual glorious views......sorry to go on about it but it is an very special landscape. (pic) The boats, little boat sheds and houses that dot the seashore are fantastic.
Unfortunately the weather changed again and the ride into Bergen was wet and cold, however the hotel was warm.
On the way in the "tall ships" were tied alonside and what a great display. (pic) They are very big and very impressive moored, and I can only imagine what they would look like under sail. May get a look tomorrow but you never know with this weather.
It was good to ride with TJ but he is away to Iceland, and I will continue to ride south. Probaly more great rides in wonderful places......its tough all right.
nzl04

Floro to Kalvik 8/9 August

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We bid farewell to Shuhei in his plane that he flew from Canada, pic attached, and set off to Kalvik. We had been told of a music festival in this "special" settlement on and island a short distance away. It turned out to be a wonderful ride, with many fjords, vilages, towering hills of rock and still patches of snow and yes the inevitable ferry ride.
That was where we met the local reporter who put a picture in the paper and made us a bit of an oddity in this small community. I will try a link to this site under links. What wonderful friendly people. The people I meet say NZ is friendly but these people are special. We were made welcome, greeted, taken to drinks, given a free campsite, and even shouted breakfast at the restaurant where the owner says he has not had a holiday for 29 years. As well we attended the two concerts which were great fun.
So we had a great time here and so did everyone else. The harbour fills with boats, the camp sites fill with people and they have a great party. One of the events is running on a floating boardwalk. A little chilly for my tastes but the kids enjoy it. I hope the pic captures the flavour of the event and the place.
So two nights flew by and the memory of this spot will remain special. They do have an advantage in that Norway is exceptionally wealthy from its North Sea oil revenues. However they still face the same problems of the drift to the city, but in this small town it is more difficult because those that leave do not sell their homes which they keep for holidays, so the town is suffering from a lack of people, except for this week where they hosted the "Tall Ships" that are having a regatta here and their annual festival.
nzl04

Floro and a day "off" 7 August

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A well earned day of rest in a very picturesque spot.

Not much to do which was great. A day for blogging and resting. Thom has a bike problem that is distracting him.

I took a picture of the town and the fjord and a Japanese man Shuhei Seki, we met at the Hotel. He is flying an aeroplane, that he built, round the world. What a magnificent adventure. He is just flying as weather permits. He has no devices, other than a parachute that will let him and the plane down softly and a small liferaft, and was most taken with our locaters that send a signal (that I hope you use -see link on blog- to see where I have been. We asked him about a bad landing like in the sea and his reply was its is so cold that help will not matter !

He has a camera on the wing that takes amazing photographs. He has one of an iceberg, glaciers, and some amazing scenes.

Anyway this guy is a really adventurer in my view. He built the plane in the US and then flew to Canada, then Greenland,Iceland the Faroes and then right here where we are in Floro, Norway. Amazing. This guy is a legend and is so unassuming. He is just doing it.

So thats todays story.

nzl04

Voss to Floro 6 August

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We started toward Flam, a small town on the Fjord that is the destination for cruise ships and the visiting tall ships. That was not before the usual ride up the mountain with spectacular views over the surrounding fjord, and back down again, where we had a ferry ride, followed shortly after by another ferry ride, and then a simply magical ride up the mountain complete with glacier, a ride across the top, lakes snow ice, the usual fantastic stuff, and then back down the mountain, which can be very boring unless you are on a bike , then its great pleasure.


So once again the valley unfolds with its own special feel and look, and they are all very different. We refuelled at Forde where the attendant advised us to go on to Floro. We did. It turned out to be a magic little village on a fjord, surrounded by boats of all shapes and sizes which for me and Thom who lives on one of the Great Lakes in the US was pure delight. Its not just the destination because getting there down the fjords and through the villages is great riding.


So we are back on the sea. Who knows what tomorrow will bring.


nzl04

Bergen to Voss 5 August

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Bergen was busy and clearly an old trading port. Still quaint but looking like it will become "modern" and be like everywhere else.

Today was the day I caught up with Thom a fellow rider on the Globeriders Tour from China to Germany. We did some chores at the local bike shop and headed off on a ride that he had discovered. It was good to be on the road again with Thom after the rather miserable ride with Goatriders. Thom did not get to finish as his chain decided to leave the sprockets about 2 hours from Munich. No one bothered to even ask what happened to him, they just left him to his own devices, which pretty much summed up the attitude of our "escourts". A less professional performance would be hard to imagine. It was a inadequate in all aspects, but I will write about that on a separate blog nzl07.

So we set off up a fjord over a mountain pass and yes there are many of them, all special and all dramatic.

Arrived at Voss and stopped the night.

nzl04

Storen to Bergen 4 August

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After the freezing ride over the line of the Arctic Circle I was expecting a much easier ride today. My pig farmer had told me of a scenic ride which I expected to be down a fjord....wrong it was over the tallest mountain in Norway, and it was wet and cold at the top. Oh yes I forgot lonely, as they say !

It was up one side where the rivers flow beautifully clear, rocky bottoms where you can count the stones, then across "the top" which is glacial, freezing lakes, solid frozen snow and ice and high rocky mountain sides. Dramatic intense scenery. Then down the other side and the rivers are now white foaming torrents as they crash down the mountain full of glacier water. Then the valleys below the mountain top unfold, first narrow, steep sided, then wider with fjords and villages nestled on the sides near the water.

I had no expectation as to what Norway was, but it is totally a suprise. The beauty of this place is spectacular. Add to that the colour of the houses and the contrast between the "wine dark sea" if I may quote Homer out of context, against the blue white grey of the sky and the stone grey cliffs. All pretty good stuff really. I hope I can capture it with these words and the pictures which are hard to select from so many different perspectives, and there are only so many waterfalls that one can get excited about !

nzl04

Lofoton to Storen 3 August

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This day started early and lasted long. After the ferry ride .from the wonderful Island of Lofoton I arrived in Bodo.

I headed south but first I had to go to the head of the fjord and then ride up a mountain. In fact it was 698 metres and it was close to freezing ( not true but very cold) and I also passed south over the arctic circle.

I was heading south toward Trondhiem and it really was a good ride. I actually made 750 k and found a place called Storen which I later found has the "best" salmon river in Europe. No wonder the lobby had shelves of clothing rods and flies for sale !

nzl04

Gryllfjord tp "heaven" 2 August

I left on the ferry the pict was posted on yesterdays post. The trip across was pretty rolly, pity help these fishermen, what tough conditions, however landfall on the island was another contrast. From Andenes it was flat and easy riding round the high picturesque outcrops, as I made my way down the Island to Sortland. Roads were good in fact a great ride in the setting sun, well it would have been if it had set. As I went further south into more picturesque countryside it just got better until it became the most spectacular scenery you are likely to see. High snow splattered peaks in golden sunlight and cute as can be little fishing villages nestled in small bays. The red houses built to the water in a backdrop of rock and green sided foothills. It was a fantastic ride.

I went all the way south to the last port, well it was dramatic and too good to miss, where the ferry had left an hour or so before, ( no midnight sailing on Saturday night). So I was thankful for a Shell stop and a hot dog earlier in the day. The garages here dispense fuel and you pay for it at the pump by card. The service station is now a shop, and fast food outlet, my principal food supply while on the road. I can get a coffee and some sort of food, sandwich, hot dog, panini, and be back on the road quite quickly. So I spent a cool night camped out, eating dried fish, in bright daylight, waiting for the 6 am sailing.

However nothing will diminish my memory of the beauty of Lofoton Island and the many little magical villages with the classic Norge boats, built to withstand terrible seas, and the bridges, and the tunnels, which are round every corner in this picturesque island. I owe a thankyou to the pig farmer in Finland for making me promise not to miss this place. However it is in the Arctic circle and it does get very cold even in the "summer".

nzl04

Alta to Gryllfjord 1 August

The ride was as different from last nights trip across the desolation as could be. Steep sided fjords huge rock mountains, with snow pockets, waterfalls, villages along the waterds edge, with towering forboding cliffs that appear as if they call fall on top any time. Reassuringly they seem not to. The blue ranges of mountains with the green sea in front, with sometimes glimpses of blue through the clouds and mist. Very nordic. I am told that the Vikings came from all 3 countries, the Swedes did little, the Danes sent out war parties, and the Norges actually invaded and occupied Britain, particularly York, so my friend Rolf at the Tourist information office informed me. A very helpful chap that found me a place to stay then took me drinking in some fine company. The light at 3 am I can now report was not sunlit but was bright enough to read by.
This little fishing village of Gryllfjord is at the end of the line. Only the ferry goes beyond here.
It is a short fjord by my experience and gets the wind from every quarter. plus clouds, fog rain you name it..and it is cold. Population about 100, and all involved in fishing or the ferry, ie accommodation.
The last NZ'er here for any time was a bit of a legend as a sheep shearer. The austere nature of this part of Norway makes it a place for the very robust. They love fishing and beer. I met the headmaster and the Mayor both in the pub about 2.30 am. Its rather a community. The "pub" is above the cafe which does a pretty good fish soup.
nzl04

Nordkapp 31 July

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I left Inari once again in cool but dry weather. The ride again was uneventful as the climate is not the best for interesting growth and the lanscape fairly rough.

As a result of the EEC there are no "borders" no passport stamps, nothing. So I had high hopes when stopped at the Norway border, but alas only a student doing a survey on tourism for Finland.

The landscape became fantastic once at the foot of the first fjiord. They are beautiful places to me, lots of water, rocks, high rocky outcrops jutting into the sea, rocky shores, and sandy bays, a very picturesque place. And yes lots of reindeer.

For those that remember the Beatles the Mull of Kintyre was echoing through my mind once I arrived at Nordkapp. The building there became totally obscured from 75 metres away, as the mist rolled in from the North sea. Hence the picture, to not only record this was the start of my southern journey but the elements of the arctic as well.

The other pic is the structure at the top. Its possibly well known and taken by all that visit, but not before by me and probably not again !

So farewell to the top.

I was hoping to ride and follow the sun through the night but the weather had other plans.

The ride south was by now wet and bitterly cold. I had 5 layers on and still miserable. The lanscape south of the top is bleak and barren. Lots of unthawed snow, rivers that only a keen fisherman would love, and barren hillside, some pretty high but still not mountains in my view.

Alta is my home for the night, on yet another fjiord, with a feel for those that know it, like Lake Taupo, in the winter.....in a stiff southerly. I am grateful for the sauna.

nzl04

Rovanieme to Inari 30 July

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The ride from Rovanieme started in glorious sunshine, cool but sunny. It was a "motorway" day as it seemed I had about 400k to ride but it turned out to nearer 300k. The road itself is the only road through Lapland it seems so a real tourist route. Lots of Camper vans, motor bikes, and some trucks. The road was actually pretty good. It seems the EEC fund these main tourist routes. The first stop was for breakfast at the Sany Claus town. There is no reason for this place to exist but it does, right on the actic circle, and for the gps fans its about 66 degrees north.
The road was flat, the view was pretty much the same, flat, birch trees, and grass with the odd house, painted red. I sidetracked to the town where the amethyst mine is, which was mainly a ski town and not much happens in the summer, well there is no snow if thats summer, other than seeing my first reindeer. The thrill soon wore off as there were lots of them and they liked to walk down the road. They are a stange animal. Hence the pictures
And thats about it, so the mind starts to wander. Some things repeatable some not. I recall our headmaster explaining why the cavalry dismounted and walked every 40 minutes or so, thats one of the unrepeatables. Then I got to wondering about morality, which I do a lot after having experienced some of the worst behaviour in commerce imaginable. The legal fraternity ( are they a profession ?) to name but one, are a sad greedy lot, and the finance sector would make the crime scene in russian ( which I hear is pretty tough) stand in awe. I read recently that the next PM of Britain made a strong statement about morality. I hope the next PM of New Zealand and everywhere else as well, takes note. I was contemplating the downfall of Rome and the widely attributed moral decay of the time, well, as they say history repeats itself.
The north of Finland which they call Lapland is a pretty place. Lots of trees and lakes and swift rocky rivers. If the "thaw" ie no snow, lasted longer than a few months this would be a tourist mecca.
So I made it to Inari. Not without geting rained on sadly. Its not the rain so much its getting all the clothing on. An extra layer on everything and getting gloves on top of gloves is frustrating. However as Billy Connolly says there is no such thing as bad weather, just inadequate clothing !
I chose a Hotel for my last night in Finland, and the Sauna by the river was good, however the salted reindeer stew I had for dinner was excellent.
nzl04