31 December to Tattapani in the Himalayas

The bad thing about rushes of inspiration is that they are often not well researched, and this was not. I decided that after riding to Chandegarh yesterday, a dismal ride in the fog, that I should celebrate my success with the epoxy by taking a detour.
So I set off into the Shimla Hills, about 100k I was told and Tattapani a few kilometres beyond that.
The ride to Shimla was an expedition. Bad roads, worse driving, and fact pandemonium and chaos on the road. The road steadily climber from about 350m up into the Himilayas. It was dramatic. Steep sided hills with houses clinging to the sides. Some bush cover, but mainly quite thin and dirt and dust in clouds. The drivers were all over the road. Left right and middle. If an obstruction occurs, they just pile up around the stoppage, both sides of the road until no one can move. Lots of honking as every available inch becomes occupied. Then of course the detanglement must occur and that is a time consuming process. At risk of offending these people are the stupidest drivers I have ever encountered. Rude, selfish and just plain bad drivers.
However I made Shimla after 127k only to find that my destination was another 50k further on on even worse roads.
I had no option but to continue. Past the highest golf course I have seen at 2600m perched on the side of a hill. Very odd. However I still had to go from the top of the mountain to the valley floor at 650m. That was one ride in the fast fading light. The sun on the mountian tops was dramatic but not as dramatic as the road that clings to the hillside and winds its way to the river bed. Goats, monkeys, people, the usual hazzards, and of course buses and trucks with no respect for motorcycles. It was get out of their way or wear them.
Eventually in the dark I found the place reccommended by Lonely P and why did I expect better. A dump which I found had been condemned due to constant flooding, and now they plan to build a dam and flood the area properly. The dam up river releases at night and the river rises by 5 feet in minutes.
However the reason for coming was the "sacred" bathing in the hot water. Now that was good, well did not compare to even a poor facility, in a grimy concrete tub, but it was hot water and I enjoyed the therapeutic benefits. Everything else is unmentionably bad. Bad food, dirty rooms, dirty beds, cold shower, pretty grim.
I lasted two nights. It was cheap but that sometimes is not the issue.
So on the 2nd I set off up the mountain. It was to be fair a damn fine ride in the daylight. Dramatic scenery, I did not see any leopards which I understand live in these hills but the usual goats, dogs, monkeys and women cutting and carrying. In Pakistan the donkey is the "workhorse" in India I think its the women.
The day was pretty clear and it was again a workday so initially the road was not too crowded as I got to Shimla. It amazes me how they make a rubbish heap out of a town even on a mountainside. However the bits of bush were good but again the relentless dust......as I descended the mountain again into the madness of the traffic where a typical idiot in a truck, they have no idea of the extremities of their vehicles, as I stopped for an intersection ran into me knocking the bike amd me over, and breaking the hand protector and clutch lever. He kept on going the bugger, but soon a crowd gathereed and lifted me up and I was again away down the road.
The weather is really suprising. It is cold and foggy. I ran on for 260k for the day, a long way in this traffic, and found the town of Karnal. Not chosen for any purient thoughts I can assure you.
Found a Hotel. A grand place, managed a haggle on the price and decided to stay and catch up on emails and washing.
Washing is a real chore. Clothes are at a minimum. Mostly one of everything and they all need washing, frequently.
So the parts for the bike are still somewhere in the air. My chosen machanical shop in Delhi expects the parts on the 9th. I expect them sooner but I am reluctant to put all my faith in an epoxy patch on the leaking water pump gasket.
That is the problem. Getting repairs done in the UK on the problem caused by a mechanic that did not do the water pump repair properly (left out a washer). As far as I can tell 100% of the problems apart from breaks, are caused by mechanics. Not just roadside mechanics, BMW workshops are places of hazzard that cause untold problems for cross country bikers. They are in the main "not competent". They also lack parts, the BMW model of not carrying any stock at all.
I have to say I question the BMW and its suitability for the job. The engine is a Rotax, but badly maintained by BMW. The body is pure BMW fantasy. To check the radiator first take off the rear top box, then the seat, then the engine cover...... Its not a joke its pathetic design.
So I am in Karnal.
Where to next ?
nzl04