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Friday, December 12, 2008

Thursday 11th Dec. Yazd to Shariz




I was a little concerned about this leg as it was back over a 2500metre mountain pass and it had been snowing. In fact I just heard that Erzurum (Turkey) is under snow now so I am pleased to have got away from there.
However it was only hard getting out of the city. There are few signposts and even fewer in english. Happily I found fuel with the usual game of where is your fuel card and then, are you a tourist ? which I thought may have been obvious ...... and then I found the road. It was a four lane highway and a good surface. Over the pass with only old snow visible then 80km down the other side.
Finally found the "highway" to Shiraz and shorly after one of the old cities, now a barren plain where Cyrus the Great has his tomb, stuck out in the desert ! (Pic) No matter how flash the tomb, he is still dead !
Then down the road to Persepolis. (Pic) What a heart break. Possible the most impressive place I have ever visited, a marble city that was built totally for the "worship" of the then King, a place they visited at new year to receive gifts, of course these guys were Zaroastrians. It lasted 150 years then along came that bastard Alexander the Great and he burnt it down.
Yes I know the buildings were beautifully decorated and highly polished marble but they were held together with steel and lead clamps, and as the roof was wood on huge beams, the fire he started melted those clamps and it all ( well most of it) fell down.
In the picture you will see in the background (I hope) the front of the tomb carved into the hillside. One of the Kings Xerces of similar.....but still dead !
One of my objects when undertaking these rides was to see mankind, and how inhumane we still are. And we still are. Still driven by fear and greed. Zaroastianism has been replaced by all sorts of religions, in this area, Christianity and Islam ( Coke and Pepsi) one followed the other, and both it seems needing a heavy advertising budget.....but then again that maybe just me !
However after the sadness of Persepolis it was off in the dark to Shiraz. It certainly does test ones resolve to ride into a new city in the dark with the driving that is so scary, it really is the man in front has the right of way but the ways they get "in front" are pretty risky, however with that blind faith...I am in front.....I will not get hit.....and I didn't. So with inadequate maps no GPS and a hint of the direction and the street from a guide book I found myself outside the Hotel I was seeking.
A note on Hotels. Expensive mainly dirty with little service. The better ones have two sheets, the rest a sheet and a blanket. Dining is still pretty scary. I have little idea of whats what and resort to a wander around and finding something someone else has if all else fails. As the food and entertainment capital........well there is little in Shiraz the once proud capital of the wine world...perhaps.
Not much of a city but with the reputation of being the food and entertainment centre of Iran......I am glad I am not here for that !
nzl04