Short ride after a morning in Starbucks on the net catching up on emails.
I was hailed on leaving by a fellow, George, who has a BMW 650, loves to ride and wanted to ride with me and show the way out of town. Thanks George.
Then a ride down the coast to Sithonia one of the three legs (penninsula) as they call them that are at the head of the Aegean. This is olive country. They cover the hills. Narrow roads and olive trees. Then the vilage in the hills overlooking the Aegean.
The locals are friendly, although most live in Thessaloniki and come for the weekened.
It was a haven in the hills.
nzl04
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Friday to Thessaloniki
The road took me past My Olympus, which I sadly had some other huge mountains to compare with so its not much of a mountain and the sacred home of Zeuss lots all its glamour when I saw the sign to Mt Olympus skifield.
I carried on. I made Katerini and a Kantina (roadside fast food) for lunch. But I had a mission, I was looking for Vergina, and as usual very few signs, so I rod efor seemingly a long time and suddenly there was a small sign to the Royal Tombs. This was the Kumulus of Phillip II the father of Alexander the great and the man that I understand joined the Greeks as one nation. That was a long time ago. He was murdered and his son Alexander built the Kumulus, a tomb, or in this case several (four I think) with magnificent front doors and a tomb in which the ashes were placed with some belongings and sealed up, then the whole thing covered with a huge mound of earth. It was unbelievable to be at the door of this Tomb thousands of years old. It of course had been pillaged by grave robbers some many certuries ago, no matter how well meaning I have an abhorrance of these people that did up graves and claim some destinction as an "explorer"...yeah robber.
Anyway it was memorable, the only problem was that I then had a ride in the dark to Thessaloniki.
That worked out OK and I found a Hotel, and they sent me to a street with a fantastic restaurant. It was a very good day.
nzl04
I carried on. I made Katerini and a Kantina (roadside fast food) for lunch. But I had a mission, I was looking for Vergina, and as usual very few signs, so I rod efor seemingly a long time and suddenly there was a small sign to the Royal Tombs. This was the Kumulus of Phillip II the father of Alexander the great and the man that I understand joined the Greeks as one nation. That was a long time ago. He was murdered and his son Alexander built the Kumulus, a tomb, or in this case several (four I think) with magnificent front doors and a tomb in which the ashes were placed with some belongings and sealed up, then the whole thing covered with a huge mound of earth. It was unbelievable to be at the door of this Tomb thousands of years old. It of course had been pillaged by grave robbers some many certuries ago, no matter how well meaning I have an abhorrance of these people that did up graves and claim some destinction as an "explorer"...yeah robber.
Anyway it was memorable, the only problem was that I then had a ride in the dark to Thessaloniki.
That worked out OK and I found a Hotel, and they sent me to a street with a fantastic restaurant. It was a very good day.
nzl04
Thursday 30th Iaonina to Larissa
Dinner at the Taverna as interesting last night. An all male place that served a diet of food wine and football. There are many men taverna in Greece where they sit and talk, play, and watch football mostly quite loudly.
However I had a calling today to visit the site of the Dodona Oracle. The old oak tree where Odyssius visited the oracle and later became a place of temples and worship and an amphitheatre that seated 17,000 that the Romans converted for blood sports, killing people and wild animals. They were not sitting round playing backgammon and watching football. They also had a sports track for competitions. What a place. So old.
Back through the city toward Metsovo, a very old village on the side of a hill. It has been resurected by some industrial beneficiaries so it feels alive. Cobbled streets and a square where the souvlaki is the food for lunch, which I enjoyed also. Then it was away to Kalambaka to ride round the Meteora, the monastaries built on the top of cliffs and totally inacessable (unless invited) and quite a stunning picture in the fading light and lowering sun as the night fog rolled in obsuring almost everything. Then away over Greeces highest pass the Katara to Larissa. That was a suprise. What a city, what a society, I doubt if I have seen such a place of coffee bars and cafes in the square. I eat Greek. Lamb stew. Good too.
nzl04
However I had a calling today to visit the site of the Dodona Oracle. The old oak tree where Odyssius visited the oracle and later became a place of temples and worship and an amphitheatre that seated 17,000 that the Romans converted for blood sports, killing people and wild animals. They were not sitting round playing backgammon and watching football. They also had a sports track for competitions. What a place. So old.
Back through the city toward Metsovo, a very old village on the side of a hill. It has been resurected by some industrial beneficiaries so it feels alive. Cobbled streets and a square where the souvlaki is the food for lunch, which I enjoyed also. Then it was away to Kalambaka to ride round the Meteora, the monastaries built on the top of cliffs and totally inacessable (unless invited) and quite a stunning picture in the fading light and lowering sun as the night fog rolled in obsuring almost everything. Then away over Greeces highest pass the Katara to Larissa. That was a suprise. What a city, what a society, I doubt if I have seen such a place of coffee bars and cafes in the square. I eat Greek. Lamb stew. Good too.
nzl04
Wednesday 29th Albania to Greece
Got away after a visit to Duress to find some Roman ruins withoiut success, but did my new trick, go to the Bank get them to direct me to an Insurance Company and get the Green card that I didn't get at the border.
Durress however was crowded and dirty. I was away down the road feeling pretty confident of a good ride. Then as I turned into the hills to go over the range to Greece it got very black so as the rain sport started I stopped to tog up. I was there dressing and up to the gate behind me came what might be described as a crone. She was short, dressed in black totally just a little wrinkly face waving me away from her gate. I stayed. So she watched, and after a short time a flicker of a smile then a serious pointing at the black clouds and shaking her head. Finally she left with a cheery wave and some words that I took as complimentary at least wishing me well.
Shortly however her warnings became real. High winds, belting rain and some of the most challenging roads that I have ever ridden. It was fatastic. Stretches of new blacktop two full lanes wide, then roadwors where ther road was hard to find in the mud, then broken seal metal flat stones that I suspect may have had more to do with Romans than Albanians. All the time the snatches of mountain views and coastline were just awesome, and the old guy with the donkey just visible under a huge load, and he walking ahead with a big hat and a coat that only Joseph Stalin would have thought looked good just added reality to this erie scene.
If any place is crying out for adventure riding (on a road) its here.
So finally in the fast disappearing light I found a border crossing, that was easy, and I was down the road in the darkness toward I hoped, Ioaniana. It was and I found a hotel.
What a day. 320k of sheer excitement.
nzl04
Durress however was crowded and dirty. I was away down the road feeling pretty confident of a good ride. Then as I turned into the hills to go over the range to Greece it got very black so as the rain sport started I stopped to tog up. I was there dressing and up to the gate behind me came what might be described as a crone. She was short, dressed in black totally just a little wrinkly face waving me away from her gate. I stayed. So she watched, and after a short time a flicker of a smile then a serious pointing at the black clouds and shaking her head. Finally she left with a cheery wave and some words that I took as complimentary at least wishing me well.
Shortly however her warnings became real. High winds, belting rain and some of the most challenging roads that I have ever ridden. It was fatastic. Stretches of new blacktop two full lanes wide, then roadwors where ther road was hard to find in the mud, then broken seal metal flat stones that I suspect may have had more to do with Romans than Albanians. All the time the snatches of mountain views and coastline were just awesome, and the old guy with the donkey just visible under a huge load, and he walking ahead with a big hat and a coat that only Joseph Stalin would have thought looked good just added reality to this erie scene.
If any place is crying out for adventure riding (on a road) its here.
So finally in the fast disappearing light I found a border crossing, that was easy, and I was down the road in the darkness toward I hoped, Ioaniana. It was and I found a hotel.
What a day. 320k of sheer excitement.
nzl04
Tuesday 28th to Montenegro
Nothing like familiar food and todays omlette was a beaut.
Then there I was at yet anothe border. This one totally civilised. Big welcome smile. Give me your passport, go to the next office and get a green card, which I did, quickly and simply and there I was back to pick up the passport, welcome and enjoy your visit.........and at the bike was another guard with a country sticker for my pannier. Some places just make you feel good.
And so did their country. Unfortunately it was small and I was able to ride through it with little reason to linger longer. It was very appealing. Steep sided high hills, almost a fjord, towns on the water, evidence of Roman influence everywhere.
This pice of land on the Adriatic had been fought for for hundereds perhaps thousands of years and only recently obtained, so perhaps persistant fighting does yield its rewards.
Unfortunately once away from there and on to the capital it became dirty untidy and providied no desire to stop, so on I went to the border with Albania. If first impressions count I would not have proceeded. The border was confusing and untidy and I was told so many stories about how to get a green card I just carried on, over some very very bad roads, very dirty roads, in fact might be called an open rubbish dump for about 20k. What an eyesore. The other interesting thing was no roadsigns. I was flying blind pretty much. But slowly the roads improved and signposts emerged.
I had miscalculated again so ended up riding in the dark on roads that were not marked but the GPS indicated I was going the right way, and I was and fortunately I found a sign to Duress where I found a Hotel, owned by the Gas station of which there were an abundance. Never seen so many petrol stations.
The waiter at the Hotel was happy to talk and he assured me that after the country opened up there was a lot of crime but then the government got tough and locked them all up. Now he claims people are working and honest and Albania very safe. I took him at his word and so it seemed.
I have to add that after a good breakfast I had a great dinner, roast vegetables in olive oil, then a plate of mixed spring rolls, kidney liver beef with garlic toast, and lots of olive oil, what a feast.
This was a recently built hotel with so much bedroom furniture it wouldn't all fit but it was clean, and had the usual hall mark of hotels in this area, a hole in the sheet !
Footnote. I have not made sufficient reference to beauty of the coastline and the autumn colours, the abundance of grapes all turning red, gold lining the plains and the hills and the forests covering the hillsides, right the way from Slovenia down to Albania.
nzl04
Then there I was at yet anothe border. This one totally civilised. Big welcome smile. Give me your passport, go to the next office and get a green card, which I did, quickly and simply and there I was back to pick up the passport, welcome and enjoy your visit.........and at the bike was another guard with a country sticker for my pannier. Some places just make you feel good.
And so did their country. Unfortunately it was small and I was able to ride through it with little reason to linger longer. It was very appealing. Steep sided high hills, almost a fjord, towns on the water, evidence of Roman influence everywhere.
This pice of land on the Adriatic had been fought for for hundereds perhaps thousands of years and only recently obtained, so perhaps persistant fighting does yield its rewards.
Unfortunately once away from there and on to the capital it became dirty untidy and providied no desire to stop, so on I went to the border with Albania. If first impressions count I would not have proceeded. The border was confusing and untidy and I was told so many stories about how to get a green card I just carried on, over some very very bad roads, very dirty roads, in fact might be called an open rubbish dump for about 20k. What an eyesore. The other interesting thing was no roadsigns. I was flying blind pretty much. But slowly the roads improved and signposts emerged.
I had miscalculated again so ended up riding in the dark on roads that were not marked but the GPS indicated I was going the right way, and I was and fortunately I found a sign to Duress where I found a Hotel, owned by the Gas station of which there were an abundance. Never seen so many petrol stations.
The waiter at the Hotel was happy to talk and he assured me that after the country opened up there was a lot of crime but then the government got tough and locked them all up. Now he claims people are working and honest and Albania very safe. I took him at his word and so it seemed.
I have to add that after a good breakfast I had a great dinner, roast vegetables in olive oil, then a plate of mixed spring rolls, kidney liver beef with garlic toast, and lots of olive oil, what a feast.
This was a recently built hotel with so much bedroom furniture it wouldn't all fit but it was clean, and had the usual hall mark of hotels in this area, a hole in the sheet !
Footnote. I have not made sufficient reference to beauty of the coastline and the autumn colours, the abundance of grapes all turning red, gold lining the plains and the hills and the forests covering the hillsides, right the way from Slovenia down to Albania.
nzl04
Monday 27th Dubrovnik
A good start on a sunny day and I was this time on my way to Dubrovnik. Incidentally I am writing this sitting in the home of Kazim in Istanbul and the sound of the calls to the mosque echoing round the city are haunting.
But Dubrovnik as I said was dramatic. What a place. I walked the wall and tried to understand the absurdity of war, yet what has driven these countries that until just 20 years ago were still fighting for strategic land after 4000 5000 how many years ?
I try to avoid staying in cities where tourism is a big factor, firtly they have a sameness and they are generally expensive so I was off down the coast first hiving bought some green card insurance. I did find at the border that Croatia was excluded from my policy....so a tip for travellers.....like going to a Shell shop for directions, go to a Bank for matters commercial. So I went to the Bank, they had an insurance company next door and a security guard that took delight in looking after the bike.
So I ran down the road and found such a magical little town right on the water. Cavtat is georgous. The sort of place where one could tie up a small boat and stop, for a long time.
I was not so fortunate, and for me it was a walk round in the evening light and another walk in the morning to refresh the wallet at the local "hole in the wall".
I did manage some fresh small fish cooked whole called as best I could interpret as Cackarels, a bit like small herrings but tasty.
The town was even prettier the next day in the fresh sunlight with the little boats tied up at the seawall selling fish.
(Meanwhile over the balcony today in Istanbul, another huge cruise boat is tying up in this stunning port).
Croatia will be left behind tomorrow with some very good memories.
nzl04
But Dubrovnik as I said was dramatic. What a place. I walked the wall and tried to understand the absurdity of war, yet what has driven these countries that until just 20 years ago were still fighting for strategic land after 4000 5000 how many years ?
I try to avoid staying in cities where tourism is a big factor, firtly they have a sameness and they are generally expensive so I was off down the coast first hiving bought some green card insurance. I did find at the border that Croatia was excluded from my policy....so a tip for travellers.....like going to a Shell shop for directions, go to a Bank for matters commercial. So I went to the Bank, they had an insurance company next door and a security guard that took delight in looking after the bike.
So I ran down the road and found such a magical little town right on the water. Cavtat is georgous. The sort of place where one could tie up a small boat and stop, for a long time.
I was not so fortunate, and for me it was a walk round in the evening light and another walk in the morning to refresh the wallet at the local "hole in the wall".
I did manage some fresh small fish cooked whole called as best I could interpret as Cackarels, a bit like small herrings but tasty.
The town was even prettier the next day in the fresh sunlight with the little boats tied up at the seawall selling fish.
(Meanwhile over the balcony today in Istanbul, another huge cruise boat is tying up in this stunning port).
Croatia will be left behind tomorrow with some very good memories.
nzl04
Sunday 26th Croatia
Daylight saving ended today in Croatia. So the morning start was cold cloudy and windy. Still I ride without rain and I am happy about that.
So my plan to go to the National Park at Plitvic thwarted I headed south through Knin and Sinj, where there is an historic picture og the Virgin Mary, greatly revered. My plan was to get through to Bosnia at Motski but with no facility to buy insurance at the border I was turned back. No wonder these countries are poor. I was turned away because they could not organise a piece of paper that cost about 5 euro. I had hoped to go to Mostar where some of the war had focussed with the destruction of an historic bridge, since rebuilt. Well that will have to wait.
The matter of "green cards" in europe is just plain stupidity. Fortunately the EEC have it sorted, one policy for all, well mostly.
So I changed plans and headed over the range that runs down the coast and was on my way to Dubrovnik. Wow ! What a city. The old city I mean, within the walls. This was the turning point in the war when Dubrovnik was seiged. The evience is still visible, some empty sites that were destroyed, and lots on new tile roofs. However I am getting ahead of myself. The road down the coast, steep and bush clad. I found a place to stay as darkness closed in and was pleased to have a bed. The Taverna round the corned provided beer and a pretty ordinary goulash but I was fed after 330k of a rather disappointing ride.
nzl04
So my plan to go to the National Park at Plitvic thwarted I headed south through Knin and Sinj, where there is an historic picture og the Virgin Mary, greatly revered. My plan was to get through to Bosnia at Motski but with no facility to buy insurance at the border I was turned back. No wonder these countries are poor. I was turned away because they could not organise a piece of paper that cost about 5 euro. I had hoped to go to Mostar where some of the war had focussed with the destruction of an historic bridge, since rebuilt. Well that will have to wait.
The matter of "green cards" in europe is just plain stupidity. Fortunately the EEC have it sorted, one policy for all, well mostly.
So I changed plans and headed over the range that runs down the coast and was on my way to Dubrovnik. Wow ! What a city. The old city I mean, within the walls. This was the turning point in the war when Dubrovnik was seiged. The evience is still visible, some empty sites that were destroyed, and lots on new tile roofs. However I am getting ahead of myself. The road down the coast, steep and bush clad. I found a place to stay as darkness closed in and was pleased to have a bed. The Taverna round the corned provided beer and a pretty ordinary goulash but I was fed after 330k of a rather disappointing ride.
nzl04
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